Now we’ve done some daring things in our travel but booking
an all day tour without an absolute guarantee that we could make it back in
time to the ship was a new one for us. Malaga, Spain, was as close as we were going to
get to Gibraltar which has been on the bucket list for a very long time. We
have passed it in the middle of the night, in the foggy morning, and we
scheduled one cruise to stop there but had the port canceled upon boarding
the ship. This was going to be our one shot, miss the ship departure or not.
I had been assured by the tour operator that we had plenty
of time to get back but in reading the description of the tour, it had
mentioned that there could be a problem with traffic. We loaded a backpack with
overnight underwear, medications and a few sundries just in case. Bob had
already checked on hotels in Malaga and flights to Las Palmas, the ship’s next
stop after a day at sea. So we had two days to get there if necessary.
The day before, I had a message from Eduardo, our driver,
who said he would be at the terminal to pick us up at 9:30. I guess we were a
little anxious because we were outside the cruise terminal a little after 9. He
arrived a little before 9:30 and we were on our way in a very comfortable large
minivan, just the two of us. We breathed a sigh of relief. One of our concerns
was having to share the tour with others who might take longer to see things
and shop.
The drive to Gibraltar was about two hours, mostly on
freeway. Eduardo talked about the area we passed through. It was a nice drive
mostly along the shore of the Mediterranean.
Our arrival at Gibraltar was in a bit of a fog, the rock
itself being a bit obscured. Eduardo parked his taxi and led us to the
immigration building. Gibraltar is part of the UK and not the European Union,
thus we needed to have our passports and we had been urged to be sure it had
been stamped on our entry into Spain. No problem there. Immigration had stamped
it at the airport and then insisted we go through a second immigration check at
the pier after we had already checked into the ship. One stamp had an airplane
and the other a ship. Go figure.
There was no problem going through immigration and Eduardo
met us on the other side. Apparently there is a special pass for tour
operators. He texted another tour guide, the local one who would take us around
the sights on Gibraltar. A few minutes later we met Tarek, a very happy and
jovial guy, who loaded us into his minivan and pulled a short distance over to
the airport. We needed a pit stop after the long drive and this was the best
place for it.
Refreshed, we rejoined Tarek and he started our drive to the
top of the rock. To get into the city, you have to cross the airport runway
either by walking across it as pedestrian traffic or, in our case, using the
tunnel under it to drive to the other side. The pedestrian crossing is closed
whenever a plane is due or is taking off obviously.
Our first stop was at the Pillars of Hercules monument.
Mythology says that Hercules was the one who made the passage between Africa
and Europe. It was a show of strength for love of a woman. While the clouds
threatened to cover our view, there were times of clear vision of a beautiful
view of the sea and the area below us.
Next we were able to explore St. Michael’s Cave, one of many
caves inside the rock. This one has been made into quite a light show. As you
wander through the large stalactites and stalagmites, blues, purples, magentas
and all sorts of other colors are projected seamlessly on the walls of the cave
and blend with music that eventually crescendos into quite a light show before
it all starts over again. There is even a large area where you can sit (a
natural auditorium of sorts) and watch the whole sequence all over again. Apparently there are concerts and theatrical
productions done here on occasion. The auditorium area seats about 400.
Legend has it that St. Michael’s Cave was somehow connected
to the African continent by a tunnel and that is how the Barbary Macaques (monkeys)
were able to get to the island. No tunnel has been found. It is most likely
that the Moors who inhabited the island at one time brought them with them as
pets.
The monkeys are everywhere as you venture up the rock to the
top. They are especially congregated where the feeding station is located.
There is a department of the government that takes care of them. Tarek told us
they all receive rabies shots which is a good thing as they have been known to
bite tourists who get too close or might have something to eat in their hand. At one point, we had one who was trying to get
into the van through a half open window. Why? Well, they seem to know that some
of the guides have peanuts to coax them with and create some fun for the
tourists even though it is not allowed.
After viewing the feeding station, I went to get back in the
van and felt a push on my back that sent me flying onto the seat with a squeal.
I turned to tell Bob it wasn’t funny and realized quickly he wasn’t to blame.
There was a monkey inside the van who had pushed me away to get in. Tarek quickly
got me out of the van and as soon as the monkey found what he was after, a bag
of peanuts, he grabbed them and ran. Tarek seemed to know each monkey by name
and scolded the one who scampered off in a hurry with his prize.
We got to the top of the rock but the clouds that surrounded
us did not afford much of a view. Once in a while a quick clearing would emerge
only to be followed immediately by another part of the clouds covering us
again. All the way up however we noticed heavy metal rings and at one point a
heavy metal chain. It had been used back in the day to hoist large cannons up
the rock for defensive purposes. I cannot begin to imagine that struggle.
The Siege Tunnels were another part of the Rock that we were
eager to see. They seemed to go on forever (30 miles of tunnels) and were well
documented with scenes of soldiers from the past. There were many sieges that
took place on Gibraltar but the Great Siege that lasted well over three years
began in 1779. It was during that time that excavation on the tunnels began
mainly as a way to get cannons into strategic places.
During WWII more tunneling took place in order to provide a
garrison for soldiers and storage for water and food, medical supplies,
generators, and other supplies. I cannot imagine living in those tunnels even
for a short duration.
When we finally finished our exploration of the Rock, Tarek
took us to a square in town that was surrounded by restaurants and gift shops. He
pointed out a Burger King on the corner and told us that Eduardo would meet us
there in an hour. We parted company after a hearty thank you and found lunch of
fish and chips at one of the restaurants (we were in the UK after all).
At the appointed time, Eduardo met us at the BK and we opted
to walk to where his taxi was parked just over the border in Spain. It gave us
the opportunity to walk across the airport runway. After all, how many times do
you ever get to do something like that.
Our two hour drive back to the ship got us there with plenty
of time to spare. It was a wonderful day and exciting excursion and another
tick off the bucket list.