Through My Lens - Galapagos, Espanola Island

Galapagos Journal - Espanola Island, Punt Suarez

The Celebrity Xpedition positioned itself for our afternoon excursion at Punta Suarez on Espanola Island. The trail we were to follow for our afternoon excursion was 1.5 miles long over a lot of rough terrain. As we were briefed the night before, the trail would take us to a dramatic blow hole and for a view of spectacular cliffs. Along the way, the naturalists expected that we might be able to see the albatross who were due to arrive this time of year.

Guests were given the option of a long walk (2.5 hours) or a short one (2 hours), the difference being in the loop that would take you past the albatross if they were there. We opted for the long walk and were well rewarded for it. 

Along the way, we came across lizards and iguana and a mockingbird. It was always imperative to watch your step not only because of the boulders but because often there was an iguana tail or a small lizard darting by.

About a third of the way into our walk, we came across the albatross. The first sighting was in the sky and it was followed by two birds right in the middle of our trail.

The waved albatross is the largest bird in the Galapagos. While they are good sized, they are not as large as the royal albatross we saw in New Zealand whose wing span reaches 9 feet. The flying birds we saw here had a wing span of around 6 feet. Their bodies are about three feet in length.

The albatross live on Espanola (Hood) Island from late March through December and their return each year is only to breed. We saw several mating behaviors and quite a few nests already built. The male/female pairs are monogamous and they are usually together until death. They produce one egg and it is incubated for two months. One of the nesting females was kind enough to shift just a bit so that we could observe the reddish colored egg beneath her.

The Albatross will raise their young chicks here teaching them to fly for their migration back to cooler waters in January when temperatures warm in the Galapagos and food becomes more scarce.

Like the other animals we had observed so far, the albatross were unconcerned with us and let us pass quite close by them--even the ones nesting. That gave opportunity to admire their intricate markings and take some good close up shots.

Reaching the southern end of our journey, we stood in awe of a shoreline of green cliffs pounded by the surf. We rested a few moments and just drank in the scenery as well as the sea birds flying through the air.

A little further down the trail, we could tell we were near the blowhole. Thunderous rhythmic noise grew louder and louder. We came up a slight rise and found the sea powerfully spitting up through a hole in the rocky shoreline below. The water spouted up to 50 feet in the air misting everything around it and downwind from it.

Along a section where we climbed down closer to the shoreline, we found a flock of Nazca Boobies. They were nesting in the rocky area near the shoreline. Unlike the other species of Boobies, they have a set mating period and a unique complication called sibilicide or sibling murder. The female Boobie lays a couple of eggs but about five days apart therefore they hatch about five days apart. If the first one survives, it is of course at an advantage in size and strength to the new born and can overpower it to get to the food it needs for survival. Often this is accomplished by pushing the younger one out of the nest. It adds a whole new meaning to sibling rivalry, doesn't it?

Our path became very grassy after we turned away from the rocky beach and the Boobies. It made walking an adventure with the boulders and the ever present worry of stepping on wildlife. Little did I know, thank goodness, that some of that wild life might be a snake or two.

By the time we got back on board the Celebrity Xpedition, we had little time to do more than shower and dress for our briefing which preceded dinner. The nightly briefing at 7 told us of the next day’s excursions and allowed time for us to sign on for what we wanted to do.

In the dining room, the menu spread before me was swimming before my eyes. I was so tired I’m not sure of what I ate. I barely made it to our stateroom, brushed my teeth, and crawled into bed before my eyes closed for the night. The rocking of the ship woke me several times during the night but I was so exhausted, I went right back to sleep. I needed the rest. The next day would be another great adventure.

Sunday Morning Worship Thoughts - Poison Apples

One of the things that has stuck with me through all of the Galapagos trip is the poison apple tree we saw. I thought about it yesterday again as I spoke to a group of ladies at their Mother's Day Dinner. I was talking about princesses and finding a prince (the Prince of Peace) and told the story of Snow White who takes a bite of a poisoned apple offered by her evil stepmother, the queen. Disney certainly took politically incorrect views of stepmothers back in the day of the early films.

Poisoned apples are certainly dangerous whether they be offered by a stepmother casting a spell, inviting a taste as it hangs deliciously on a branch or encouraged to be indulged in by a charming snake. Eve learned a tough lesson in the garden but I can't help but wonder how that lesson served her in raising her children. Was she a more careful mother? Did she take more pains to be sure her children didn't make a similar mistake?

As we got to more public areas of Galapagos, wherever a poison apple tree grew, there were signs posted to warn visitors. You see, if you even touched the leaves you were in danger of getting a rash or worse depending upon your allergic reaction. And eating the apple? Well I don't want to even imagine what may have happened.

What if God had put sign up as well as telling Eve? Would it have made a difference? Probably not. He gives us signs and warnings all the time but so often we just plunge ahead anyway. Hopefully when we realize our mistake, our sin, we know to repent, to correct, to take measures to keep from repeating it over again. Maybe even make a sign ourselves to warn us not to indulge in the harmful ways but rather to live in the nourishing fruitful ways He has provided.

Galapagos Journal - Espanola Island, Gardner Bay

Espanola Island is the southernmost island of the Galapagos and at approximately 4 million years old, one of the oldest in the archipelago. Gardner Bay on the island’s north side, our morning destination, is one of the longest beaches in the Galapagos.

We had been briefed the night before on how to do a wet landing—a lot less intimidating than it sounds. The zodiac pulled up to where its nose rested on the beach and we scooted toward the front, and when it was our turn, turned and swung both feet over the side (minus shoes) and slipped down into ankle deep water. Since this was a beach walk, most of us opted to keep our shoes off. I figured this was pedicure time as the sand would slough off winter’s calluses.

The zodiac had rested just between two groups of sea lions who were undisturbed by us. They lifted their heads and looked as if to say, “Hey guys, the tourists are here again.” Our group of 16 led by our naturalist, Alexis, dropped our snorkel gear for later on the upper beach and gathered for another reminder to not touch the wildlife and to not get between the sea and the sea lion who looked at the water as his escape route if he felt threatened.

But wait! Someone forgot to tell the sea lions! As we stood there one rather large sea lion ambled up and slid between the legs of a couple of us. So much for the 8 foot rule (stay 8 feet from the animals).

Alexis explained seven different ways sea lions were different from seals the most obvious being that the sea lions have external flaps over their ears. 

Galapagos sea lions are different than any other in the world and are only found here in the Galapagos Island or on Isla de la Plata, which is a small island just off the coast of Ecuador. The males can reach about 900 pounds when full grown and the females average about 244 pounds. Male sea lions declare their spot on the beach and fend off any other males to establish a harem of sorts. He mates with the females in his group, some of whom may already have a pup. The female is ready to mate again about two weeks after her pup is born. 

Young pups find their mothers and vice versa by the guttural sound they make. Then when they are in close proximity, the mother can smell the young one and recognize that it is hers. Only then will she allow the young pup to nurse. The pups nurse until they are about a year old—some longer if the mother allows it.

Meanwhile, Papa sea lion patrols the water’s edge to be sure that the young pups don’t venture out too far and become dinner for any predators in the area—most specifically sharks. This is a group effort on the part of the males. They take turns patrolling and often go for long spells of time with no food to get the job done.

After a sufficient time without food, the males will congregate in what is called a bachelor colony while other males take over the guardianship. The bachelors use their off time to eat, rest, and soak up the sun. There is no rivalry here unless a female decides to enter in. Then it could be no holds barred.

The pups in the family groups are of course the cutest. They curl up to sleep and are curious enough to want to venture up to you and look at you with their wide soft eyes. The eyes of the sea lion are special in that tears are produced to protect them more from the elements. Perhaps that’s why they look so vulnerable.

As we walked down the beach, I could see an area that looked speckled with black objects. I thought at first it was a larger colony of sea lions but the nearer we got, the more I realized it was an outcropping of lava rocks. Suddenly, as we neared one large one, wet from the sea, we could see bright orange colored Sally Light Foot crabs climbing all over it and between them, a host of marine iguanas.

The iguanas are vegetarians and the crabs, scavengers, so they got along just fine. The colors of the crabs were phenomenal. There were fine lines of yellow mixed into the orange and blues and turquoise. Patterns emerged in their coloration as you examined them closer. Alexis mentioned something about how they got the name Sally Lightfoot but there was no way to take notes and by the time I got back, I'd forgotten. Of course with Alexis' sense of humor it may have been just a funny comment.

The marine iguanas were not what I call a beautiful animal but then beauty is in the eye of the beholder. There were some red tones on their backs that reminded me of molten volcanic lava running between and under lava that has cooled. Perhaps that made them indicative of the Galapagos Islands since the islands are all born of volcanoes. The iguanas have huge sharp claws which enable them to climb the slippery rocks and cliffs on some of the islands. They eat algae off the rocks in the water tearing and scraping it off with their sharp teeth. They were very benign creatures just mostly basking in the sun. As they swam in the water they used their tails much like a crocodile or alligator does to propel them along.

When our walk was done, we donned our dive skins and wet suits and wandered between the sea lions to the water. Unfortunately, the surge and the waves did not make for good snorkeling. The water was clouded with sand and particles kicked up by the wave action. We saw some fish but they were more like shadows. Disappointed, we gave up and opted for a return to the ship. Watching all those sea lions lolling in the sun had made us tired too.

A hop and a twist to pull our feet over the side of the zodiac and it wasn’t long before we were on our way back for lunch aboard the Xpedition. The crew was ready for us and the food and pampering was much appreciated.

Galapagos Journal - Quito to Baltra

The dawn was just lighting our morning when we assembled for our trip to the airport and on to the Island of Baltra in the Galapagos. Everyone was eager to get out of the city and on to the beautiful wildlife we had come great distances to see.

Our two hour flight was punctuated with a second breakfast of quiche, fruit, coffee, juice, etc., all served on a tray placed on a white linen placemat and with real silverware. It was first class even though we hadn’t booked the first class seats (and paid an extra $200+).

The approach to Baltra took us over and around several islands and finally our plane landed at the small airport that must have been a part of the military base there at one time. Renovations were underway and it appeared that the place we gathered in before we were cleared through customs, was all brand new. Carry-ons were x-rayed again to be sure we didn’t carry anything with seeds that would upset the ecological balance of the islands.

Several buses took our group of 90 to a small dock area in a bay where the zodiacs awaited our arrival to take us to our ship, the Celebrity Xpedition. We donned life vests that were worn like a sleeveless jacket and were helped into the zodiacs for our first of many rides to follow. As we got our instructions about safety, I couldn't help but remember with a smile our instructions for our life jackets for the zodiacs on our Antarctica cruise. At least this water would be a bit warmer if we fell in.

At the rear of the ship was a large thick net where the zodiac could point its nose and hold position while the passengers disembarked. We were taught the special “handshake”—hand to other’s elbow for a firm grip as we exited.

On board, our group of 16 was led by a naturalist to a seating area in the lounge where he explained a few more things about procedures and outlined what we were about for the day. The purser aboard then gave us our room keys and a steward to lead us to our staterooms.

We just happened to be the last to give our names and when we did she looked around as if something were wrong. Then in a lowered voice, she said that Miami had given us an upgrade and instead of a regular room on the fourth deck we were now in a suite on five. If we were unhappy, she would try to make other arrangements.

Unhappy? We had a littler larger room with a balcony and a cabin steward who was almost like a butler. A plate of fresh fruit in the morning.  Hors d'oeuvres every afternoon.  Granted it broke one of my rules—never get a stateroom too high up on a ship but the balcony made up for my misdeed. I love a balcony. Hopefully we would find that the weather was such that we could enjoy it.

Unlike other ships since this one is so small, there was only one muster station. It was the first life boat drill I have attended where the life boats were actually positioned as they would be in an emergency and several in the crowd were asked to board to show how it was done.

Rain wet our introduction to the Galapagos as the ship cruised around Daphne Island but we were treated to a half dozen red throated frigates perching on the ship’s ladders above us. Unfortunately with the rain, I couldn't get a really good photo. 

 We eagerly looked forward to our first briefing to see what was on for the next day and of course dinner to follow. The night would be spent however, rocking and rolling as we made our way to Espanola Island. Thank goodness for Bonine.

Wordless Wednesday

Through My Lens - The Faces of Quito

Galapagos Journal - Our Night In Quito

An Italian restaurant? We're in the middle of Ecuador! Why would Celebrity Cruise Lines take us to an Italian restaurant for dinner? Because it's good--really, really good.

Not having much time from our late return after our visit to Mitad del Mundo, we freshened up quickly. Thankfully this trip was meant to be casual so we didn't have to dress up much. We met again in the lobby with the other 90 or so Celebrity guests and boarded our buses once more.

It was a short trip to the restaurant where we were to eat. Our buses stopped on a side street and we walked down a smaller alleyway to a gate. Once through the gate there was a collective ahhhhh. We had entered the subtly lit garden of Carmine Ristorante.

The converted mansion had at one time five bedrooms but everything inside had been remodeled to include many different dining venues as well as several lounges. Some of our group headed up to the second floor dining room while others of us who didn't mind a little cool evening air, opted for the covered patio area that had space heaters to chase the cold.

The menus were simple with a couple choices for appetizers, several entrees and of course a couple of dessert choices. The full menu at Carmine's offers much more but we were a group of 90 or more descending on the restaurant all at one time. They handled all the commotion with grace and efficiency.

Carmine himself helped out by taking our orders. He was an amazing man--outgoing and energetic. Throughout the evening he not only supervised his kitchen but greeted every single guest in and out of the house. He spent time with some folks from New Jersey and swapped stories of his adventures in New York City's restaurant culture.

Our appetizers arrived quickly. I had seared tuna which was heavenly, done perfectly so that it was tender and almost melted in your mouth. Bob enjoyed a Caprese salad of mozzarella cheese and fresh sweet tomatoes. In our basket of breads there was one that we fell in love with--a foccacia that was buttery and with just the right amount of garlic.

Carmine had tried to talk me into a shrimp filled ravioli as I ordered but I am such a mushroom lover that I wouldn't be deterred. I don't know what the shrimp might have tasted like, but the mushroom was everything I could have wanted in pasta and fungi both with a delicate buttery sauce drizzled over the top.

While my mushroom ravioli was excellent even more so was Bob's sea bass which he graciously let me taste. The fish was done to perfection, tender and seasoned lightly to bring out the flavor. Unfortunately we did not think to take pictures of our dishes but you can find pictures of the food Carmine usually serves at his website: Carmine, Gastronomia & Arte

As we awaited our dessert, I couldn't imagine how it could get any better. Our plates were delivered with two light cream puffs that were topped with a
warm rich chocolate sauce. Ecuador has some fine chocolate and I'm guessing Chef Carmine takes advantage of it. Since I can't eat ice cream, I passed my scoop over to Bob who was doubly delighted at that point.

As we were finishing, Carmine made the rounds again to be sure his guests were all happy. I leaned over to Bob as we watched him interact with everyone and said facetiously, "It's a shame he doesn't like his job." This man was not only a wonder in the kitchen, but he was an amazing host. He invited us to look around the restaurant more and see all the venues that included a couple of large rooms for small groups where they could dine privately.

If you happen to be in Quito, save room in your budget for an evening at Carmine's. You won't be disappointed.

Our evening ended early as we were expected to assemble in the lobby of the Marriott at 6:30 a.m. to fill out  forms for entering the Galapagos and then make the hour long journey back to the new Quito airport for our flight to Baltra.

Galapagos Journal - The Middle of the World, Almost

Our lunch for our day in Quito with the Celebrity Cruise Line's precruise was at the Theatrum, a restaurant located on the second floor of the Sucre National Theater. While the food was very good and we got to sample some Ecuadorian dishes, the real treat came in the tenor who surprised us with his musical presentation.

I found out later his name is Stahl and he released an album called Locked In last year. He had a wonderful repertoire of classical and popular music and a voice as clear and sure as I’ve ever heard. He was unbelievable. If I had not been sitting so close, I would have said it was lip syncing to Pavarati. Someone on an earlier tour must have videoed him. Here is a link to hear his Music of The Night.

The rain settled in as we exited the restaurant surrounded by quite a legion of police. They had practically escorted us into the restaurant when we arrived and now they patrolled the perimeter of our group until we were safely back in the buses. I'm guessing that we so obviously were a group of tourists that it was wise to show a police presence and keep the pickpockets away. Not only that but our three buses stopped traffic for a short time as we boarded. I'm sure there would have been some angry drivers otherwise.

Our driver headed north of the city to a place called La Mitad del Mundo where we were to actually stand on the equator. It was a 45 minute drive that turned into an hour because of traffic. At the Mitad del Mundo, stands a large monument marking 0 degrees latitude. Through it and running down a long walkway and through the restaurants and shops that surround it is a yellow line to mark the exact middle of the earth.

Several interesting things were pointed out to us. It is easier to balance an egg here. Gravity has less pull so you weigh less. 

This spot was determined to be 0 degrees latitude by a team of French scientists in 1736. No surprise that they did not have the advantage of a GPS. They used the tools available to them to triangulate the area and come up with that spot as being right on the equator. And they were close. Modern technology has determined that the true line of the equator is about 900 feet to the north of where we stood, or so some would have us believe. All of this of course we found out much later. So we were thrilled to claim we'd stood on the equator. Ah well, close enough, I guess. Next time Bob vows to take his GPS.

 We went up to the top of the monument by elevator and took in the view. Then we descended by the stairs which took you through a museum display at each level depicting several different native communities and eras. At the very bottom was a display for Galapagos, whetting our appetite for what lay ahead.

By the time we returned to our hotel, we had little time for anything other than to dress for dinner—an experience that deserves its own post.

Galapagos Journal - Morning in Quito

Quito, the capital of Ecuador, sits at an altitude of around 9,000 feet. To combat altitude sickness, we were advised to drink lots of water and there was plenty of bottled water available from our tour guides. We did well, only occasionally feeling a bit light headed and of course short winded when it came to doing any stairs.

As we waited in the lobby of the Marriott for everyone to gather for our day exploring Quito I noticed large arrangements of roses everywhere. A fresh rose had even been laid on our bed last night. So many roses. . .and then I remembered. When I had the flower shop, all the roses we bought from the suppliers came from South America. Later we would see roses for sale: 25/$1!

Our morning was spent strolling the streets of Quito in the old town after a stop high above the city at La Basilica. We stood outside and admired the facade full of animals and birds of Ecuador. While there, we were approached by a handful of vendors. Our guide told us they were from an indian tribe in the area that sells hand made good among other things. Several ladies had a pile of brightly colored scarves folded over an arm. Each lady wore a green felt fedora with a feather in the hat band. With them was a beautiful little girl who was selling handmade purses for a $1. I asked if she would let me take her picture for $1 instead and she and her mom agreed.

Back on the bus, we drove through the narrow streets of old town to a drop off point. The traffic was horrendous. It was Sunday and I wondered if it was worse on weekdays. We made it down to Independence Square, the central plaza of the old city. People congregated and lingered in the square, some of them listening to street preachers and one or two orators with political views.

The Presidential Palace took up one side of the square, the Cathedral of Quito and a museum another, the Archbishop's Palace and a grand hotel a third side and the remaining side was shops and restaurants. We entered through a doorway into the commercial area of the Archbishop's Palace to see a couple of courtyards. Along one side was a restroom for those in need and I think that was more the reason for stopping there.

Our group crossed the square to the Cathedral which was built in the middle 1500s and walked along the front of it. It had suffered from several earthquakes and had been renovated several times. The domes were painted tiles which were a unique style of architecture.

Crossing the street at the corner, we were able to go through the gate to walk the length of the Presidential Palace and were just in time to see the changing of the guard. As a matter of fact, I almost became a part of it as I got a little too close and was nearly speared by the end of a flag pole. Just inside the entryway, we were able to view a lovely courtyard split by the main staircase into the palace. The top floors are occupied by the president of Ecuador and the lower levels are for governmental purposes. There are tours that can be had to see some of the inside.

On a wall in the entryway, was the emblem or seal of Ecuador. It featured a condor and from then on every time that our guide told us a distance, he ended by saying, “As the condor flies.” Clever. 

Around the corner from Independence Square is the Church of San Francisco. It is not only a church but a monastery and museum as well. We climbed steps up to a balcony overlooking the sanctuary to see the amazing ornate decoration. Most of it was gilded in gold. We could not take any pictures because too many others in the past had used flash rather they meant to or not and there were services going on. 

The museum in rooms off the main sanctuary
 was full of wonderful statues, many that had been used often in religious parades years ago for special festivals.

Noon arrived and we were escorted to our mini bus for our trip to the restaurant for our lunch. My growling stomach agreed that it was time.

Wordless Wednesday