World Cruise--Safari, Rhinos and Lions, oh my!

The early morning game drives were also an opportunity to see a beautiful sunrise. None of them disappointed. While the animals are probably the major reason for safari, the landscape of the area is of equal interest. In the distance were mountains and where we did the drives was somewhat hilly in places and lifted you up enough to see a vast expanse of bush with trees dotting the landscape.

Adding interest to the landscape were the skeletons of dead trees. Thanks to the elephants scraping their tusks against the bark of the trees, they would allow for the entry of beetles that would lead to the tree’s demise. The trees often took on shapes that you might find in Dali’s paintings or even reminiscent of Edvard Munch's Scream, perhaps some more like modern sculptures.

Some of the trees were just pushed over. Sheldon told us that the elephants take out their angst or frustration on the trees and just push with their head until the tree breaks or falls over. Other times the mom pushes a tree over so that her youngster can reach the leaves to eat.

We had a few encounters with some rhinoceros (should that be rhinoceroses?) My heart stopped a moment when one just stood and stared at us. Was he deciding to make a run at us? This is where you have to trust in your guide and tracker to know enough about the behavior of the animals to see if it’s time to run or stand ground. He who turned out to be a she with a youngster in the bush next to her turned and trotted away with said youngster in tow.

Another encounter was when we topped a slight rise in the road and found two rhinos in the middle of the road. They stood and looked at us for a quick moment and then took off into the bush. Sheldon said they were teenagers, so to speak, whose mom had probably sent them off to learn to fend for themselves. He was glad to see them run off as we approached. If they get too used to people, they become targets for poachers.

It was always fun to see what got Sheldon and Arnold excited. They were out there every day but I guess it doesn’t get too old for them. As we drove down the road next to the river one another jeep slowed and stopped to tell us to watch the other side of the river. There was another lodge over there and near it was a whole herd of rhinoceros. Our guys were excited to see that. It was very unusual according to them. You could see some young ones among them as well.

In another grassy area as we drove along the trail that consisted of two tire tracks we suddenly saw what looked like a small dog dart across and disappear into the taller grass on the other side. We caught just enough of a glimpse to see the markings and realize it was a jackal.

Another off road adventure had us searching for some lions who reportedly had just made a kill and were gathered together in the bush enjoying their tasty impala. It was always a little breath holding time when we left the road and drove over small brush. How Arnold stayed on that front seat on the bumper was beyond me.

It took some tracking but we finally came upon them. There were mostly females with some younger ones but no cubs. We stopped and just watched as they wandered about sometimes taking a turn at feeding off of the kill. The video I’m posting shows a lion mom with two older youngsters. Continue to watch and you will see me pan to a lion under a bush who is chewing on a piece of the impala kill.

The greatest lion find was yet to come however. The next day, we found a lion den. Again, Sheldon and Arnold were really excited over this find. We happened upon a female who had four young cubs well hidden under some large trees that made it impossible to see them clearly. We could see movement of the cubs who our guide guessed couldn’t be more than a week old--something to do with the markings he was able to see on the cubs.

Mom was right next to our Landcruiser which was between her and the cubs. We could hear her breathing heavily and uttering a low growl. We sat there for a while trying to get a look at the cubs but eventually I think Sheldon and Arnold decided it was prudent to move. Mom had not stopped growling.

Somehow Sheldon managed to back the Landcruiser over the bushes behind us that we’d knocked down. That vehicle amazed me. We gave another group some instructions of where the cubs were and I think they were able to get a few pictures as they came in from the other side.

Not only were we completing our list of the Big Five (lion, leopard, elephant, rhino, cape buffalo), we were also seeing all the leading characters from the lion king. We happened upon a small group of warthogs. They weren’t dancing and singing much though. Probably a good thing or I would have thought I was on a Disney safari.

World Cruise--Safari, The Leopard

The Toyota Landcruiser turned off the road (the two tire track trail we were on) and headed into the bush. The vehicle is amazing in what it goes over including rocks and saplings. Even more amazing is how our tracker, Arnold was able to stay on his seat in front as he not only watched for animal signs but directed Sheldon, our guide, around dead stumps of trees and rocks that were a little too large for the underbody.

Someone had alerted the guides to the possibility of a leopard in the area. We found the tree where the leopard had hung his kill, a small impala, and to our surprise, we had stopped right next to the leopard who was lying in the tall grass and watching that nothing disturbed his next meal.

A leopard! Right next to us! Not more than six or eight feet away. You could hear him breathe deeply. He was a big boy as Sheldon described him. A beautiful spotted coat of tan, black and white colors, his head was large and squarish and his large eyes narrowed as he watched his tree. Something was coming.

The something turned out to be hyenas. Sheldon explained that the hyenas could not climb the tree. Their legs are more like a dog rather than a cat and their agility not great. Their patience was great though. They would wait their turn at the carcass of the impala as the leopard would let pieces fall that he was done with.

The hyenas turned out to be a bit comical. The two of them maneuvered around to comfortable spots beneath the tree, did a little rolling around and one even laid on his back as if to say “someone scratch my tummy please.”

The hyenas didn’t bother the leopard too much although to me his breathing seemed to get a bit deeper and quicker. It also didn’t seem to bother him much that we were this close. I guess as long as it didn’t appear we were interested in his kill, he was fine with us admiring his beauty.

After a good twenty minutes, another Landcruiser was getting close to us and we pulled away to allow them to view the leopard as well.

On our last visit to Lukimbi we had only seen a leopard twice, once at nightfall as he crossed the road in front of us on our way back to the lodge and again as he ran in front of our van as we were about to leave the park. Neither encounter left much time for a good picture. We were blessed now.

The leopard in the grass was wonderful but on our next morning game drive, lo and behold, we saw him again. At least Sheldon was sure it was the same one. This time however he was resting beneath a large tree out in the open. We quickly got as many pictures as we could before he lifted himself off the ground, stretched, yawned and walked off into the bush. We followed along for a bit but then lost him. While he didn’t have any green coloring, his camouflage still worked to his advantage.

I cannot begin to tell you the feeling you have when you have met one of these magnificent animals out in the open. We have admired them in zoos but it is so much different when you see them in their natural surroundings, free to roam and hunt and live as they were intended. I’m so thankful that there are those who are trying to protect this natural environment not only for the animals but for us to be able to appreciate their beauty.

Our mornings were also punctuated with a short coffee stop. Arnold made a mean cup of Nescafe Gold instant and even had a little milk for mine as well as biscuits that were a bit like biscotti for us to snack on. It held us over until our return for breakfast.

The open dining area of the lodge had tables set up so that you could watch any animals that passed by in the open area on the other side of the small river that ran by the lodge. As we ate one time, we saw a large antelope type animal that we soon learned was called a kudu. He munched on one side of the river as we munched our meal on the other. Another unbelievable experience.

World Cruise--Safari Time

Morning arrival in Durban

The breeze coming through the Toyota Landcruiser with its front window down to provide a clear view was refreshing in the African afternoon heat. A butterfly flitted in and lingered a few minutes right in front of my face. For a moment I wondered if I was on a virtual safari at Disney and watching a 3-D movie where the butterfly had appeared to come out of the movie screen. No, this was real and we were off on the first game drive of our three day safari adventure in South Africa.

Resigned to the fact that there was just not a good way to get home for my brother’s funeral, we went ahead with the safari trip we had booked many months before. It would be a good distraction, I hoped, and that turned out to be true. Sorrow turned a little sweeter as we enjoyed the wonders of God’s creations.

After three days at sea, our ship docked in Durban, South Africa, and we woke early to be sure we could get through immigration and make it to the airport in time for our flight to Kruger Mpumalanga Internation Airport near the Kruger National Park. As it turned out, we arrived in plenty of time at the airport to have a little more breakfast before boarding. The KMI airport is about two hours from the Lukimbi Reserve and Lodge where we would spend the next three nights.

Safari.com who made our arrangements, had a driver waiting on us when we arrived and our drive began. The drive is usually about an hour and a half to two hours but we ran into traffic on a stretch where it was stopped for some work on large tree trimming. It was a beautiful area though and we loved looking at the colorful rock formations and the brightly colored butterflies surrounding us on occasion.

At the park entrance, our driver had to fill out papers for us to register our visit in the park. They even checked the back of the van to be sure we weren’t bringing in any contraband--like guns to hunt with, I assume. Poaching is a big problem in the park but I would guess that poachers are a little more discreet on how they enter the park.

We weren’t five minutes into the park and our driver pointed out zebras on the side of the road. A little further and we spotted a giraffe or two, then some impalas and more zebras and a glimpse of an elephant. Wow.

Lukimbi is about a forty minute drive into the southern part of Kruger Park and is a private reserve, one of seven in the national park and one of the largest. This was our second visit. The first was with an excursion from our Crystal World Cruise in 2015. We knew it would be a great stay as long as nothing had changed too much. It hadn’t.

We arrived to a warm welcome and a lovely suite. It’s actually like a cabin or bungalow with a sitting room, a bedroom, a huge bathroom, a deck, a plunge pool (that was fun), and a wonderful view of woods that fringed a large grassy area and provided plenty of entertainment over our stay.

The routine had not changed. We arrived in time for the two o’clock lunch which included a buffet of all sorts of salads, fruits, and BBQ ribs. That was followed by our first game drive at three-thirty. It would last until six-thirty then dinner at seven-thirty. 

In the morning, a five-thirty wake up call followed by a quick cup of coffee and a six o’clock start to the morning game drive. Breakfast upon return at nine and then an optional walk, either to see hippos at the river or a bush walk. And then it continued into the afternoon schedule again. As crazy as it may seem, it was relaxing.

By the end of the first afternoon game drive we had seen almost all of the big five including a small pack of elephants who wandered across the grassy area behind the bungalow while we were getting ready for our game drive. There was a little one with them who literally skipped and danced alongside mom.

The big five includes the lion, leopard, cape buffalo, rhinoceros, and the elephant. These animals were dubbed the big five back in the 19^th century because they were considered the most challenging and dangerous to hunt. Thankfully hunting them is now discouraged and unlawful especially in the park.

I’ll start with the cape buffalo. It looks much like the water buffalo we’ve seen in Asian countries working in the rice fields. I think the horns are a bit different I’m sure among other things. They are herbivores but can get aggressive if threatened. The ones we saw pretty much just ambled by or hustled away. They usually go into the bush and then look back to see what we’re doing. I love the picture I got of one peeking around the bush to look at us.

Our first afternoon game drive would net us the ever elusive leopard. But more about that in my next post.

The Zulu

Yes, I admit to being a skeptic especially when it comes to souvenirs. A while ago I was buying wooden objects and my criteria was that they be of native wood and made by a native of that country. I was in a hurry one day and bought something in the Caribbean and got it home, turned it over to see that it was made in China.

In Cape Town, South Africa we strolled through a art and craft pavilion and I fell in love with a beaded necklace. The sales lady said it was made by the Zulu. I really didn't care at the time. I liked the necklace and it looked well made and we bought it. But was it really made by the Zulu? And who are the Zulu? Now that I'm home and have the time and most importantly a good internet connection I thought I would check it out.

The word Zulu means "sky" and according to oral history, Zulu was the name of the ancestor who founded the royal line about 1670. The Zulu make up about 22% of the South African population. The largest concentration is near Durban which is quite a ways from Cape Town. Still, it's quite feasible that the owner of the jewelry booth could have had pieces shipped to her.

Zulu or not, the necklace is my favorite souvenir.

World Cruise - Cape Town, Day Two

Up early this morning, we caught the first shuttle bus into the Wharf and talked the driver into letting us off at the aquarium so that we could catch the first HOHO bus to Table Top Mountain. When we got to the red line bus, we were told that the cable car to the top was not operating because of the strong winds at the top. I guess that explained the lack of a “tablecloth” of clouds there this morning. Wind conditions were subject to change and we still wanted to see the sights on the other route so we boarded anyway.

We covered some of the same territory that we’d seen in the city the day before and then went up to the cable car terminal on the side of Table Top Mountain. The cable car was still not running and it was reported that there were gale force winds on top. We were disappointed. Had we taken the red route the day before, we’d have been able to make the ride. The up side of the situation was that we still had one more half day here and the possibility of riding the cable car before we sailed.

Our route took us back along the sea shore and past all the beautiful beaches we’d seen the day before. I had a second chance at some scenic shots.

Once back at the HOHO station, we decided to do a little looking around at the shops and market area. There was one large warehouse type building that had been fixed up to house lots of small booths that sold all sorts of things from clothing to African art and jewelry. We happened upon a small booth that had lots of interesting beaded jewelry and one caught my eye. The lady who owned the business said that all the beading was done by the Zulu and she would order certain designs when she ran out of them. I bought my necklace of black, gray and white beads and planned to wear it at dinner.

Lion's Head and Signal HIll

It was lunch time and we opted to try walking back to the ship. Bob estimated it would take about as long to walk to the ship as to the shuttle bus and he was pretty sure he knew the route after having been by it several times on our bus trips. Sure enough it was an easy walk and an interesting one that took us past the dry dock area where there were several large boats being repaired and painted.

 After lunch Bob was off to play paddle tennis and me, I was off to do laundry and some reading. My necklace was a hit at dinner and so much so that I had to direct another friend to where I had bought it.

The next morning we heard that the cable car was still not running so we decided to walk into the Wharf area and just wander around. We were facing seven days at sea and didn’t want to spend our entire day on board the ship. We did some souvenir shopping. This was after all the first time we’d been to South Africa and who knew when we might return. By the end of the day though we knew we would return someday. There is lots more to see and do in this area and it is a beautiful place. And there’s that cable car ride we never got. . .

Wordless Wednesday

World Cruise - Cape Town, South Africa

Our one day at sea after our safari and return to the ship in Durban turned into two and a half sea days when the wind kicked up so badly we couldn’t get into Port Elizabeth. For me it had little effect. I spent most of those days in bed reading or watching TV. Getting over my cold was my number one priority. I was miserable with no safaris to distract me.

The word was that the sail in to Cape Town, weather cooperating, would be spectacular so by the time we were heading around Cape of Good Hope, I was ready with my camera. Curious to see if Cape Town was as beautiful as everyone said it would be.

I could not recognize which prominent point was actually Cape of Good Hope where the Indian Ocean meets the Atlantic and no one was around to point it out. I could however tell exactly when we neared Cape Town. Along the coast was spread an enormous area of civilization and behind all the buildings and homes rose a huge mountain, the famous Table Top Mountain. It was breathtaking.

The Table Top Mountain was covered with a tablecloth of clouds that seemed to spill over and disappear just over the edge. I stood and watched and tried not to take too many pictures. I was still going through my safari pictures (over 500 of them). I didn’t need to add a bunch more.

Originally we had signed up for a scenic drive excursion when we discovered we would be in Cape Town a little longer than scheduled after missing our stop in Port Elizabeth. Then our tablemates told us about the price of the Hop On Hop Off and what it offered and we jumped at that opportunity and cancelled our excursion. For about $42 USD (for both of us) we could explore two different routes, one all along the peninsula and the other around the city and up to Table Top Mountain’s cable car station. In addition we could get a canal tour, a wine country tour, two historic walks, and an opportunity to watch the sunset on signal hill all within the space of two days—for one ticket! Bob got online and bought the tickets. Thankfully the internet was working well that day.

As soon as the ship was cleared and we were able to go ashore, we took the shuttle bus from our ship to the Victoria and Alfred Wharf area and walked to the Two Seas Aquarium where the beginning point was for the HOHO bus. We hopped on the first bus we saw that was doing the peninsula loop for a two and a half hour trip around the outskirts of Cape Town where several beautiful beaches and communities dot the landscape.

Once we arrived back at the start point, we decided we had time to do the canal tour. The canal is a very small waterway that was man made. It was an interesting trip that wound its way around several luxury hotels in the middle of the city. If they expand on it, it might be a good alternative to busy streets.

We found a spot along the wharf that was bustling with activity and had some refreshment and a little rest. Lots of families were enjoying the shops, the restaurants, the activities that were going on all around us. It was quite a large hub of entertainment. More importantly, with all the families around, it felt like a very safe place to relax and enjoy.

Earlier when we’d first boarded the blue tour bus for the peninsula, we had ordered a small box lunch for the sunset tour to Signal Hill. Signal Hill was once the place where there could be communication with ships at sea but now the only gun fired is at noon and is quite an attraction. We would not be there for noon but we would join others for the sunset.

Signal Hill sits next to the Lion’s Head, a rocky crag on top of another hill. I couldn’t decide why it would be named Lion’s Head until someone pointed out that Signal Hill was actually the back part of a reclining lion. Okay.

We met the bus at 5:30 PM and started out immediately for the top of Signal Hill. We and about a thousand or more other people. By the time our bus got to the top, there was little room for maneuvering because of all the cars parked there. Our dinner bag in hand, we searched for a spot on the hillside among a crowd that was obviously a lot younger than us. Ah, that’s what keeps us young—hopefully.

There was barely enough time to eat our tuna fish sandwich, chips, and juice before the sun started setting. We had been warned that the bus would leave just as soon as it set and we surely didn’t want to be left behind. We needn’t have worried. It was a traffic jam of huge proportion. Cars trying to turn in little space to head down the hill and no one there to direct traffic. No wonder the tour was said to be two to two and a half hours.

The start of the trip down was slow enough to get some good shots of the city below. The light show was spectacular. Then something strange happened about half way down. The bus behind stopped along with us and unloaded their passengers onto our bus. Then our driver said the bus was too heavy up front (it was a double decker) and all the front passengers needed to move downstairs or to the back of the bus. There were few seats left. We just watched in amazement. Our seats were in the middle and we figured we were good.

The bus must have done about 5 MPH all the way down to keep from bottoming out on the bumps. Our tour was now looking at three hours long. What time was the last shuttle back to the ship, I asked nervously? 10:30. We made it to the shuttle behind the mall at the wharf in plenty of time. The shuttles ran late that night but we warned others that if they planned the night tour they should count on taking a taxi back to the ship. The next night the shuttle quit running at 8:30.

Safely back on the ship we were sufficiently tired and ready for bed. It had been a great day. Cape Town was an exciting place to be. We looked forward to traveling up to Table Top Mountain in the morning.

Through My Lens - More Safari

Through My Lens - Lions

World Cruise - Safari Four!

I had skipped dinner the night before. I nursed my cold with two cups of hot tea in our bungalow and a couple of biscuits spread with a little peanut butter that I had brought along from the ship. It was enough and gave me more time to rest. I kept hoping that I would be able to breathe better and I did, a little, the next morning.

Bob had told me as we dressed early in the morning of the stories of a herd of elephants that the others had seen but we were still one ahead with our leopard sighting. The others had only seen four of the big five. On our way to the lodge for a cup of coffee before setting off on safari, I noticed movement under the walkway to the bungalow next to us. When the long tail flicked out I realized it was one of the monkeys several had reported seeing near us. Again, no picture, but true story.

Armed with my tissues, my Vicks, and my camera, I climbed into the Land Rover and wondered how I’d discovered new muscles that now ached. Did I mention that the floor of the Land Rover was about eye level to me? Quite a climb up and too late I realized that others were able to board by the area in front of the lodge where it was built up. They could walk up a little grade and climb right in. Then in back of our Land Rover I noticed another guide who was just putting away a small step ladder. Huh? Why didn’t I think to ask?

Our first stop was near the river. The sun was rising  and spread a golden light on everything. Hippos, impalas, egrets, cranes, and several deer-like animals that I can’t remember the name of were grazing on the small patches of green in the middle of the river bed. It was so peaceful and calm—almost mystical. I could have spent the morning just sitting there watching it all but our guides were interested in showing us more.

Craig and Thomas wouldn’t tell us what they were tracking. We were pretty sure it was a cat. Maybe a leopard or more lions? They were expecting to surprise us. We had asked about the herd of elephants and once we stopped to see elephant tracks. What did they have up their sleeve?

A herd of impalas slowed us for a few minutes. As they scampered off I managed to catch a picture that could have been put on the back of a Chevy. I was so proud of myself.

A brown snake eagle, a couple of storks, and some rhinoceros. It was amazing how all of a sudden these were becoming almost mundane. Maybe it was just the charged atmosphere. Our last safari and Thomas and Craig being so secretive.

Thomas raised his hand to signal halt and then pointed up ahead. There in the middle of the road were four lion cubs just trotting along. No moms in sight. It looked like the feline version of the rat pack or the boys on the hood. We slowed and followed until they decided to rest on the side of the road. What followed was entertaining and wondrous.

The cubs seemed to pair off. Two were very near us and two wandered just a bit further and one even plopped in the middle of the road to rest. We spent a good fifteen minutes just watching and snapping pictures and then Thomas said softly, “I hear the call.”

When mama lion goes off hunting and leaves her cubs, she calls to them as she returns. Mostly because they probably aren’t just exactly where she left them. Just as Thomas said he heard her, the cubs picked up their ears and looked across the road. A moment later they were all on their feet and headed into the bush. So were we.

Craig explained that mama might be calling them so she could take them to a kill and feed them. We followed and wondered what might lie ahead. When we met up with the mamas (there were a couple), the cubs cuddled and nosed their mothers in the side. The interaction was spectacular to watch. Motherly love knows no bounds.

Thomas pointed in the direction the mothers had come from and we could see more lions coming.

“It’s the pride!” Craig said excitedly. “Here they come.”

And come they did! Right at us. Not only a pride of lions but two rhinos as well. We questioned whether the lions would take down the rhinos but were told that they knew better than to mess with a rhino. The rhinos however, didn’t like the interference of the pride of lions with their peaceful morning. Suddenly they took off and charged at the lions which sent them scattering and scurrying faster in our direction. Needless to say adrenaline pumped in all of us—except maybe Craig and Thomas, who sat calmly on the front left fender.

The male lion made his appearance and we all gasped in unison. There he was. Close up and heading in our direction. He glanced at us several times and then passed by as did the rest of the pride. We began to follow behind. We watched the cubs still tussling with their mothers as the pride kept a steady pace heading for—where?

Was it for a kill? Where were they going? The radio was crackling as Craig was reporting our position to the other Lukimbi Land Rovers. This was too good not to share.

Before long the lions were on the dirt road we’d left. Craig circled the Land Rover through the bush so that we could get in front of them for better pictures. We stopped and watched silently in utter amazement as the pride walked down the road toward us. Once past us, they were walking straight for another Land Rover and we were happy that they were getting great photos too.

Just past the second Land Rover, the pride turned off the road and we all followed soon to be joined by a third Land Rover. The lions just ignored the activity around them giving us a glance now and then but going on about their business—the business of finding water.

We ended up at a watering hole. It looked like one that might have been dug by a rhino and had certainly been wallowed in. There wasn’t much water but lots of mud. What impressed me most was that the male lion let the others get a drink first. I would have thought that being the granddaddy of the bunch he would have had priority or at least asserted himself and pushed others away. But no, he was patient and inserted himself quietly into the group for a drink.

Once they all had a few licks of water they began to separate a bit and find shade beneath the trees and bushes. The cubs were still playing a bit but when the male lion found his spot in the shade several females came over and nuzzled him and then lay down around him. He had their respect it seemed.

We stayed for a bit and watched. I put the camera down. I wanted to just observe, to take it in, to just enjoy what God had placed before us to see. What an amazing opportunity.

All too soon we realized we had to return to the lodge. Our safaris were over and we needed to leave to meet the ship in Durban. After breakfast we packed our things and spent a few more quiet moments in the lodge looking out at the bush country. Kruger National Park was certainly a beautiful area. I wondered what the rest of South Africa would be like.

Our buses arrived to take us to the airport for our plane ride to Durban. Luggage was loaded and goodbyes and thank yous said and soon we were on our way. We passed by the riverbed where we’d first seen the pride of lions. Men were working on the bridge again. I had put my camera away in my backpack. Now that we were heading home again, my cold symptoms seemed to close in on me. I had no other distractions. Until. . .

We slowed for an elephant sighting and then we were near the gate to the park. Suddenly someone shouted “leopard!” And sure enough there on the side of the road was the most beautiful leopard you would want to see. Everyone was up taking pictures mostly with smart phones since many of us had put away our cameras (lesson learned-never put away the camera in Kruger Park). 

The leopard walked along the side of the road a bit and then crossed in front of our stopped bus giving those of us on the other side of the bus a chance at a picture. For many it completed their big five sightings. For us it was a chance to get a better view of a leopard.  

The ride to the airport was lovely. The countryside, the mountains, all bathed in sunshine. Our plane flight was a bit painful for those of us with colds (our excursion hostess was suffering too). In Durban we were met by a bus and taken for a short ride to the ship. A guide was trying to tell us about Durban but I think we were all still thinking about our wonderful safari adventure and those we would share our stories with on board. I had no idea how I was going to get my album down to a reasonable amount of pictures but I’d try.

I’m still trying.