Our beautiful breakfast of fresh fruits, croissants, and omelets
over, we gathered our things for our river walk. We had already been on safari
at 6 AM and now that we were back for breakfast at 9, it was time for a trip to
the river. Our guide, Craig, met us at the front of the lodge with the Land
Rover and we drove off in the direction of the river.
Along the way we slowed to look at impalas and an elephant
in the distance. Impalas are especially abundant in the park and we were to
encounter lots of herds of them—food on the hoof for the large cats.
At the top of the trail that led to the river, our Land
Rover met up with another from our group and the two guides hopped out and
pulled their rifles out of the cases they were carried in. This was obviously
serious business and we paid close attention to the information and direction
we were given.
The hippopotamus while not one of the big five actually
kills more humans than the other animals. Craig pointed to a wide path on the
other side of the river that led down to the water. It was beaten down by the
hippos who used it regularly. Our path would not be so easy to navigate. The
wide paths however where people actually came to wash clothes in the rivers of
Africa were dangerous but attractive to those who were carrying heavy loads of
clothes on their heads.
People often made the mistake of taking the easy path to the
river but at times on their return would come face to face with a hippo.
Anything between the hippo and the water makes the hippo very nervous. It feels
comfortable in the water and safe so when it encounters something that is in
its way, it charges. The massive jaws of a hippo can break a person in two.
Moral of the story: take the narrow less traveled path to the river. We did.
Craig and the other guide cautioned us to be quiet as we
walked but once we got to the river, we could talk quietly. One led, his gun
resting in the crook of his arm and the other brought up the rear of the group.
As we arrived at the river’s edge, I was disappointed. All I saw were huge dark
rocks in the middle of the water. And then those rocks began to move and I
realized they had ears that twitched and suddenly one surfaced with a snort.
It was amazing. (Have I used that word too often?) We
watched as a mom and a baby surfaced off and on, the baby coming to the surface
a little more frequently since its lungs weren’t as developed yet. Off in the
distance we noticed a crocodile slowly making his way toward them. It wasn’t
long before mom saw the croc as well and kept positioning herself between it
and her baby. The croc gave up. No way was it taking on a huge mama.
Craig pointed out that fish were swarming behind the hippos.
The animals are vegetarian and when they defecate, the fish get a meal of “fresh”
vegetation. I’m not sure what the birds were feeding off of but there were
several that kept landing on the backs or heads of the hippos. Again I had that
feeling that I was in the middle of a National Geographic movie playing on an
IMAX screen. Surreal.
After about fifteen minutes we turned around and headed back
the way we’d come, up the narrow path and very quietly. On our drive back to
the lodge, we slowed again for more impalas. I laughed. Here I was taking
pictures of deer when all I did at home was shoo them out of the yard. Our friends
behind us called out, “Not deer. Antelope. It’s okay to take pictures.” We all
laughed.
Back at the lodge, I took more antihistamine and Tylenol and
tried to nap before lunch. It was difficult. There was too much to process from
our morning safari and river walk and the anticipation of another safari at 4
PM set my heart racing—or maybe it was the antihistamine. I blew my nose and
closed my eyes again. I’d try.
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