Haifa, Israel--The Rest Of The Story

 

"I've never been in a war zone before." The man shook his head and gave a half smile as he talked with another at the lunch table next to us. Reactions yesterday were very mixed and everyone had a story to tell about where they were and how they heard and how they made it back to the ship. 

The poor crew were swamped at the lunch buffet and I think the kitchen was not prepared. They were looking forward to a lighter day since most passengers were scheduled to be off the ship. They did well to keep up as it seemed the first thing everyone wanted to do upon their return was to eat. It was comfort for a shocked group of people who were thrown into uncertainty. Not nearly as much as Israelis I'm sure.

The afternoon was quiet. We had missed the morning announcement from the captain and someone caught us up. Sometime around 10:30 or 11 he had announced that there would be no one permitted to leave the ship. By then most of the ship's excursions had been called back. The security check had taken so long in the morning that a lot of people never had a chance to go ashore other than to get their security card. 

The understanding was that we would probably leave port. Some talk went around that the Israeli government had asked us to leave and then I'm sure there were orders from Holland America Line headquarters that we should get out. The problem was that there were many passengers who had booked private tours or left on their own. Those would be a little more difficult to gather up.

I have not learned yet how many of those private tours learned of the call back to the ship but I'm guessing through the ship's Navigator app or through their email they could have been contacted or perhaps even a text message. There are some however who still do not have smart phones. I don't know how they function in this world that often demands it. 

Mid-afternoon we heard the captain announce that we were still waiting on two people to return and we would probably sail at four. Meanwhile, the ship was quiet. Everyone seemed in a pensive, thoughtful mood I'm sure fed by more and more reports of what had happened and what was happening to the south of us.

One report caught my attention and explained a slight traffic jam we'd experienced on the way back to the ship from Caesarea. The traffic had slowed and was moving to one lane. I thought it was for an accident but when we passed the place where one lane was blocked, there was a police or military officer with an AK checking traffic through. I thought it odd at the time. Then the reporter who was south of us near the Gaza talked of how hundreds of Hamas had crossed the border, some parasailing across, and that all roads leading north were being watched for any who had commandeered Israeli cars and were heading north. That explained the traffic check.

It also explained the extra check of our tour bus as it entered the port. (See yesterday's post.) It was quite extensive. So we waited and watched the news and walked around the Promenade Deck and looked at the city that should have been coming alive as the Sabbath ended but seemed way too quiet.

Four o'clock came and went and a while later we got another announcement. The captain said he had been in contact with headquarters to see how much longer we should wait for the missing passengers. It was decided that we would leave at 5:30.

At 5:30, we were sitting in the main dining room having dinner and watching out the window for some movement to indicate we were on our way. Around six we learned that there was now a medical emergency and we were waiting for an ambulance to transport the person. We prayed. Bad enough to have to go to the hospital but now one that was likely to be in a war zone. Time for departure was now set for seven.

By now it was getting dark and the city lights twinkled like jewels. We could make out the Bahai gardens, now lit with small white lights, that went up the side of Mount Carmel. They extended way beyond what we had been able to see from the bus. It seemed that they went all the way to the top of the mountain.

At seven, another announcement. There was only one pilot today for the whole harbor and since we missed our departure time earlier, he was now not available until eight. We stood on the Promenade Deck at eight after a round of playing cards and watched to see if this time we were really going to leave. Finally the ropes were let go and our ship pulled out and away.

It was a sad departure. We watched the city grow smaller as the ship moved past the long break wall and into the open sea. Would those in Haifa be safe? War had been declared. Anything could happen. Grateful for our safe exit but sad for those whose lives and homes were in turmoil. May peace come soon.

Haifa, Israel

It was an early morning for us upon our arrival in Haifa. Immigration required everyone on the ship to be processed whether staying onboard or going ashore. Those of us on an excursion for this day needed to be up early to go through the immigration procedure which started at seven. We've done those all ship immigration procedures before and know that sometimes they go quickly and other times not so much. The way the ship organized this combined with the slowness of the security check made this a "not so much."

Thankfully we got breakfast before we started down to the gangway. The line was already backed up two decks on the stairs. It moved in spurts with numerous announcements being made to insure that you had your passport, key card and if needed, your visa. Those announcements were followed by remove ALL metal from your clothing. Mostly it was the guys who didn't remove belts that held things up I guess.

Finally passports were checked, our bags and bodies passed through security check (even my knee!!) and we received our security pass to get us through an automated gate of sorts. We sat a few minutes and then our excursion was called to board the bus. We were finally headed for Caesarea just south of Haifa. 

The only glitch, a news headline we'd caught that said there was terrorist activity near Gaza. That was quite a bit farther south and our guide assured us that it happened often and life went on. There was probably nothing to worry about. 

Now I have to tell you about this guide. She was forty-something with red curly hair and when she had her sunglasses on covering her eyes, her smile was exactly that of Julia Roberts. And she was full of energy. 

We waited until a few more people were processed and finally arrived on the bus and we were off. A beautiful sunny day that already promised to be quite warm but there was a nice breeze blowing off the sea.

Our guide began to give us all sorts of commentary on what we were seeing and about to see, historical facts, religious connections, and even a bit of the political although she tried not to do that too often. We arrived at the Caesarea National Park about forty-five minutes later. It was the Sabbath day so the traffic was light.

After the tickets were purchased, we followed her to our first stop, the theater. Much of it had been reconstructed but there was a lot that was still original. She talked of how great the acoustics were and went down on the stage and sang the national anthem of Israel for us. She felt that was appropriate for the news of the day that there was more conflict near Gaza. 

We wandered along a path that had many pieces of columns and capitals and even a sarcophagus of "Prokopios the Deacon". As with many of the archaeological digs, there are layers of history as things are built upon other things through out the centuries. 

The path eventually wound around to where we could stand in the shade for a bit and look out over the palace that Herod had built. He was no slouch. He picked a great spot right on the sea. I could imagine wonderful breezes cooling the rooms and beautiful views of the water throughout the day.

Eventually we began to walk where the courtyard of the palace was and stopped to look out over Herod's pool which was built right into the rocky shore. Two slabs of flooring were still there with original mosaic work still visible. 

This was not only significant because of Herod who welcomed the three kings (wisemen) and asked them to tell him when they found the baby king (Jesus) but also because there is evidence that Pontius Pilate also lived there for a time. 

During our tour, our guide had received phone calls from her mother-in-law and her husband. Each time she seemed a little unnerved but gave us that Julia Robert's smile and assured us that while things were a bit confusing, we were still quite safe where we were. Meanwhile since Bob had accessed AT&T's international package (they charge us $10/day when we connect onshore) he was scrolling through the CNN headlines. It didn't look as good as our guide was trying to tell us.

Just as we were to head for the museum part of our tour which would include a movie about Caesarea, she received another call which truly upset her. "Ladies and gentlemen, I am so sorry. This has never happened before. They have cancelled our tour and the ship has ordered us back."

About that time Bob pointed to a headline that indicated Israel was about to declare a state of war. "Guess we won't be going to Jerusalem tomorrow." I nodded.

New dig unveiled a possible site
where Paul was imprisioned.

Back on the bus our guide received another call from home. Her son was being called to active duty. I felt so bad. Here she was with a bunch of tourists and her son was going off to possibly be in a conflict. She was rattled a bit but undaunted. She was going to give us as much of a tour as possible. 

There was a huge aqueduct that stretched from Mt. Carmel to Caesarea not far from where we were and she instructed the driver to circle through the parking lot there so we could get a look. It was huge. The part closest to the palace had been destroyed but it seemed to go on forever but actually three miles. It supplied water to the public in the city and also filled the baths and fountains of the palace.

We got a bit more talk about politics and the relationships of Israel with bordering countries. I leaned over to Bob and said, "Most of it sounds like home." Except of course we don't live with as much of the imminent threats that they do but much of the politics sounded similar. In her opinion it boiled down to a bunch of jerks (my word not hers) who mess things up for everyone. Yup.

Again, even though I'm sure her heart and mind wanted to be elsewhere, our guide insisted we drive past the Bahai garden. Israel is home to many religions. The gardens would have been amazing to visit. The nineteen terraces rise up Mount Carmel from the traffic circle.

At the gate to the port, our bus was stopped and the outside searched. One guard walked through, an AK something or other hung on his chest as he checked us out. A minute after he exited, another guard came through and asked that we show him our ship key cards and the security passes we'd received in the morning. Once that was done, he thanked us and sent us on our way. 

Bless their hearts, the crew was out there to greet us with cold washcloths, water and lemonade and "welcome back". The only difference was our ship security was more obvious that usual pacing back and forth. 

Now back on the ship we got the hand-me-down news that the ship was asked to leave as soon as it could gather its guests. I don't know for sure how all that will happen as I write this. There are those who had private tours and some who had planned overnight visits since the ship was scheduled to be in port overnight. I think that many of the private tour guides will receive information that visitors are asked to leave and I think that those staying off the ship overnight were asked to leave information at guest services so there is probably some point of contact that can be made. Surely won't be easy.

That's all for now. I'm going to post this ASAP since I don't know how long I'll have good internet. Right now I'm leeched onto Bob's 5G. Say a prayer for Israel and especially for that mom whose son had to leave so abruptly while she entertained tourists. 

Visiting Jerusalem

Yes, we've been around the world. Yes, there are fewer places that we haven't been but one of those places is Jerusalem. One of the reasons is that we have seen what tourism has done to so many other places that we really didn't want to see the place that is so fundamental to our faith with a frenzy of tourists and those who are hawking souvenirs.

The other thing that makes me wary is being shown places that are said to be the legitimate place where a significant event in Jesus' life happened and wondering if it truly is. Are they sure this is the route He walked? Are they sure this is actually where the site of His crucifixion was? His sepulcher? Etc. I'm such a skeptic.

Many friends have gone on Holy Land tours and been impressed and inspired. It does make me curious.and now I guess we will be finding out first hand. We have signed on for another World Cruise in 2022. This cruise will take us around the world again albeit on a little different route. That route will take us up the Suez Canal and includes a stop in Ashdod, Israel, which gives us a gateway to Jerusalem.

We will be there long enough for a fairly good visit to Jerusalem and look forward to seeing for ourselves what others before us have.

On this Good Friday, I can't help but wonder what it will be like.