Port of Call - Newport, RI

Our recent cruise on the Crystal Serenity took us up the east coast from New York City over to Iceland and on to Norway ending in Dover, England. This was the first time we’d seen the New England coast from a ship. Our first stop was in Newport, RI.

The ship anchored outside the harbor and we tendered into the marina area. Close by was a tourist information center combined with a transportation center that made it ideal for getting directions and finding our way. We had researched Newport a bit on the internet and decided that we would like to see one of the historic mansions (there are several) and do a part of the three mile cliff walk along the oceanfront. Unfortunately our day started with rain.

Undaunted by the weather, we climbed aboard one of the trolleys used by the town’s bus system and rode through the main town past the historical district, through the campus of Salve Regina University and got off at the Breakers, the mansion built by the Vanderbilt family.

Inside the mansion, we were handed headphones and an audio tour that was quite well done and we proceeded to explore the luxurious and opulent manor that was to be the summer home of Cornelius Vanderbilt. Unfortunately, Vanderbilt only lived a couple of years after the home was finished.

Innovative and somewhat modern conveniences are apparent everywhere in the home. The “new-fangled” electric lights had chains on them that could switch them from electric to gas should the power go off. The large stove in the kitchen did not have individual burners but rather a large flat metal plate that was heated for cooking—not unlike our glass plated stoves of today except ours are just flat burners.

Room after room (there is a total of 70) was ornately but tastefully decorated for the period which was dubbed the gilded age—perhaps because so much was actually gilded with gold. Bathtubs, while not gilded, had four faucets. Two were for fresh water and two were for salt water pumped in from the ocean.

The Breakers was only one of 60 mansions that line the streets of Bellevue and Harrison Avenues and Ocean Drive. Only a half dozen or so are open to the public. Some can be seen from the cliff walk.

 Newport was for many years the home of the America’s Cup Race and has quite a lot of other historical buildings worth looking at if you have the time. Unfortunately, when a ship stops for the day there is never enough time to do a place like Newport justice so we got out our bucket list and gave it a spot. We need to return, explore, and sample the chowder.

Through My Lens

Wordless Wednesday

Where Is The Largest Ball of Twine?

Cawker, Kansas, claims the world's largest ball of twine--no kidding! The ball originated with Frank Stoeber who started it in 1953 and in four years it grew to be 5,000 pounds and 8 feet high. It was donated to the city of Cawker in 1961. Kansas has not been on our destination map in all the years we have traveled but we always teased the kids when they were little that we would take them to see it--not really knowing it even existed.

Just what else is on that list of World's Largest? For that matter where is the list? A little searching turned up the World's Largest Things, Inc. website. And yes, there are t-shirts. But more importantly there's a whole list of the world's largest things in the United States. I see road-trip potential here.

For example, Kansas not only claims the world's largest ball of twine but Topeka claims the largest spur, Lawrence, the largest tepee and Oakley, the largest prairie dog. You might want to check some of these out first before gassing up the car. They are a little hokey.

But while we're on the topic, here are a few more I found interesting:

• Alama, Arkansas - spinach can
• Chico, California - yoyo
• Riverside, California - paper cup
• Wilmington, Delaware - ball of rubber bands (don't want to think about what would happen if this let loose!)
• Douglas, Georgia - cuckoo clock
• Stanton, Iowa - coffee pot and cup
• Boy's Town, Nebraska - ball of stamps (I want to know who licked them all?)

And the list goes on. . .

But wait! How does Ohio fair? Well, Newark, Ohio, has the world's largest basket thanks to the Loganberger basket people and Cleveland. . . .We have the world's largest ink stamp! And they said it was only art.

Do you have Dromomania?

We often call our penchant for travel an addiction. The other day I got to wondering if it were truly possible to be addicted to travel. While I'm not sure about the psychological ramifications, I did find a word for it--dromomania. 

According to several dictionaries the term is defined this way: a passion for wandering or traveling, a mania for roaming, an uncontrollable impulse or desire to wander or travel. The term comes from the Greek dromos meaning running and mania which indicates insanity. 

Symptoms? Ours are easily apparent. At about a six week lapse in time between trips, we begin to get restless. It's more difficult to concentrate. We begin to look at planning beyond what is already planned--new places to see. As we take our daily walk and notice a plane, its contrail leaving a chalky white mark against the blue sky, we speculate about its destination. 

Is there a cure? If there is, keep it to yourself. I rather like dromomania. 

Do You Use Tripadvisor?

There are several places online that offer reviews of places to visit, restaurants, hotels, etc. Our go-to site has always been Tripadvisor. They seem to offer reviews that are true. By that I mean, we have been to other sites and read what were obviously bogus reviews by people trying to discredit others in the travel business.

When you go to Tripadvisor the first thing you will do is to search for the type of review you want in the city or area where you are planning to go. For instance in Galway, Ireland, you would enter the city and country and check hotel if you are looking for a place to stay. It will generally give you hotels, B&Bs, and vacation rentals. Then it will rank them. The Petra House where we stayed was the #1 B&B out of 153 B&Bs and Inns in the area. From there you can go down the list and see what the average cost of stay is and how many people reviewed it.

The overall review rating is shown by dots, five being the top number and next to it will be the number of reviews (Petra has 5 dots and 302 reviews). There will be pictures usually provided by the owners of the establishment and then some by travelers who have reviewed it. Below all of that you will see how many people ranked it in each of the categories from excellent to terrible. Here is where it can get sticky.

When you read the reviews, be sure to look at several factors that will be helpful. When was the review written? If it was too long ago, things may have changed--either for better or worse. Where does the person who wrote the review come from? Different nationalities hold different standards in what they expect when they travel. And even within those nationalities, personalities will differ. Use common sense when reading either a too-good-to-be-true review or a review that says it was the worst place on earth. Both are extremes and like most things in life the truth is somewhere in the middle.

Reviews are personal opinions but you can glean a lot from them. How close it really was to bus/train stations, how many steps there might be up to your room, the size of the bathroom (We were in one B&B in England that had converted a small closet to a bath. You couldn't bend over to spit toothpaste into the sink unless the door was open.) You can even catch a hint at what the weather might be at certain times of the year. Reviewers give you all sorts of insight--just again, use caution in believing all you read and what floats one person's boat just might sink another's. And if you decide to be a reviewer, remember what it was that you were seeking to learn and try to write what is helpful.

Books For The Road - The Help: Movie vs Book

It is rare that I see a movie before I read the book but after seeing the movie and hearing the good reviews of the book, I couldn't pass up the chance to enjoy what so many have acclaimed as one of the best reads to come along in a while. They were all right.

The Help by Kathryn Stockett is a fictional story told from the perspective of two African American maids and a young white writer from the South. It takes place in Jackson, Mississippi, during the tumultuous years of the 1960s when the Civil Rights movement was getting underway. It portrays the tensions, the prejudices, the relationships, etc. between the white ladies and their maids with humor and sensitivity, and shows much of the emotional tension that was certainly prevalent then.

The movie and the book are a bit different. The movie's screenwriter, Tate Taylor, did a good job in taking the three parallel stories and melding them into a great story line. While the movie enhances the story with the visual ambiance of the 60s, the book is more character driven and the reader is drawn into the mindsets of the characters typical of the 60s in the south.

What I liked most about having seen the movie first is that the actors' excellent portrayals of the characters enhanced my experience with the reading. For example, having seen on screen how Abileen would lower her eyes in the presence of the white women made it more real as I read the description in the book.

Either way, movie or book, you can't go wrong with The Help. I say do both. It will be much more enriching an experience.

Wordless Wednesday

Goodbye Antarctica - Hello Civilization, Almost

The Robbins Expedition Team that traveled to the Antarctic included my husband's twin (you aren't seeing double), his wife and my mother-in-law. You can notice in the picture not only the red parkas we received from the trip but also those infamous inflatable life jackets worn on the zodiacs.

After our stop in Half Moon Bay, the ship set course for the Drake Passage and once again we anticipated rough seas. We were again delighted to weather the crossing without much trouble and even caught a glimpse of Cape Horn before heading into the Beagle Channel and docking at Ushuaia.

Our flight back to Buenos Aires was not planned for another day which gave us time to explore the area around Ushuaia which is part of the Patagonia area known for its beauty. And beautiful it was. The park we visited abounded in spectacular scenery with snow capped mountains in the distance. It was also overrun by rabbits that had been introduced into the area perhaps a century before and had overpopulated. The guide said something about not knowing what they were going to do with so many. Hmmm. I would have suggested rabbit stew.

On a cruise of the harbor and Beagle Channel, we saw a large group of seals and sea lions. Penguins had invaded a beach area. These were Magellan penguins. Added to all the others, I think we had seen four different kinds of penguins over the course of the trip.

Our flight back to Buenos Aires was again aboard a 747 but this time we were only in first class, not the upper class-upper deck elite. . .well, you get the picture.

There are still many cruise ships that venture down to the Antarctic peninsula in the month of January but I don't believe there are many who stop as we did to enjoy the penguins. It is my understanding that the countries who care for the preservation of the natural resources of Antarctica are trying not to let tourism interfere with the pristine condition of the area. We humans leave a big imprint everywhere we go--especially when so many don't take the precautions to leave things as they find them.

If you are truly interested in an "expedition" such as ours, do some research on the web. You are sure to find something that suits your budget and dream. Although a warm fireside chair with a HD TV showing Frozen Planet isn't bad either. At least you can't smell the guano.

Revisiting Antarctica - Half Moon Bay

Half Moon Island was our last stop before heading back across the Drake Passage to return to Ushuaia, Argentina. The crescent shape of the island gives it the name and it was loaded with a whole bunch of penguins called Chinstrap. They did look a bit military strutting around and I wrote in my journal that if we could understand penguin language, they were probably shouting out, "Look sharp boys! The tourists have arrived!"

With their helmet like markings, they were like characters from an old war movie. Perched on rocky precipices all around us, they would raise their beaks to the sky and chortle constantly. They were without a doubt the noisiest bunch of penguins we encountered.

 An Argentine station is on the southwest side of the island but is rarely occupied. The contrast of the orange buildings against the blues and whites and dark grays of the landscape emphasized the monochromatic landscape. Our cherry red expedition jackets looked even more red as well set against the backdrop of the Antarctic environment.

 The sun graced our day with brilliance and warmth and I unzipped my parka a bit and removed my hat and gloves. I found a place to sit and quietly take in the beauty of my surroundings. It was hard to believe that in a few short weeks, the area would become frigid and harsh. The water would freeze and these creatures we had visited would be moving toward the open sea, migrating away from their lovely summer home in search of food and survival at the very bottom of the world--Antarctica.

And The Winner Is. . .

With a total of 11 points, Cindy Thomson has won a copy of A Scrapbook of Christmas Firsts!
Congratulations!

Revisiting Antarctica - Penguins and Seals Too!

Paradise Harbour, our next stop along the cruise of the Antarctic Peninsula, must have been named when the sun was shining brightly. Our day there gave us all sorts of weather and it changed faster than Cleveland weather does. But when the sun shone, the white snow was almost blinding.

Waterboat Point inside the harbor was the site of a Chilean station. It was manned, we were told, by new recruits--an initiation of sorts. Maybe Paradise Harbour was more a satirical name coined by the recruits who had to spend time there when the weather turned ugly.

Gentoo penguins were all over the place. No one told the penguins to stay behind the orange guide ropes that visitors were to follow. They merrily shuffled in and out among us. We had to always look behind us if we were going to step back. You never knew if you had one tailing you. The doors to the buildings in the station had to be kept closed to be sure the birds wouldn't get inside and make a cozy nest.

At the Chilean station there was a small gift shop and the opportunity to send a postcard stamped from Antarctica. Unfortunately the line was way too long. There was to much to see to waste it standing in line.

Again our time on shore was entertaining but it was also a time to see all the sides of nature. As we were heading back to our zodiac, we passed by a skua, a large brown bird that preys on the penguin young. It had found its meal for the day and was enjoying it.

Aboard ship, as we waited for all the other groups to have their turn on land, we watched other denizens of the cold south, seals. There were basically two kinds there: leopard seals who were meat eaters and crab seals who fed off of sea food. Two seals, said to be crab eaters, were lolling on a large piece of floating ice and posing nicely for pictures when all of a sudden a penguin popped out of the water and landed on the other end of the ice. He waddled past a little rise in the iceberg and suddenly spotted the seals. He jumped straight up in the air and did a 180 while airborne. As soon as he landed, he flopped to his belly and slid like a shot into the water again. Apparently, if you are a penguin, you don't stick around long enough to discern whether the seal is a leopard or a crab eater.
 

Revisiting Antarctica - Tuxedos Abound

And the last shall be first. After being last in line the evening before, we were the first zodiac group in the morning to land ashore amidst a welcome party of white and black tuxedo-feathered friends. They chortled at us, lifting their beaks to the sky and letting their gullets vibrate to emit their song of welcome--or warning.  


Exploration leaders had gone ahead of us and laid out paths that were to be followed so no one would disturb the penguins. We carefully followed the bright colored ropes on the ground that were our guide and stopped here and there to enjoy the antics of our hosts. Some had little furry offspring at their feet and others waddled off to the water to feed and/or bathe. No matter how guano covered a penguin was, returning from the water he would be spotlessly clean and absolutely beautiful.


We glimpsed a newly hatched baby--a late arrival--still partially in the egg as a mother penguin lifted her belly and readjusted her position. Some parents had two young ones to look after. Soft gray feathers made the young look furry and cuddly. The smell would cancel the cuddly part though.


Along the beach, we came upon some whale bones that had been assembled there for exhibit. Bleached rib bones reached five fee into the air. At one time, this was a great whaling area.


All too soon our time on shore was over and we returned to the zodiac landing area. Again I say this was an impressive crew on our ship. They also had to scrape the bottoms of our boots and spray disinfectant before we could return to the ship. It was all done with good humor and we were appreciative.


That evening there was a glorious sunset with colors more rich and pure than I have seen anywhere. Summertime in the southern hemisphere meant that sunset was around 10:45 p.m. and sunrise at 4 a.m. If it ever completely got dark, I didn't see it. Snuggled into bed at night, I only saw the backs of my eyelids.

Wordless Wednesday

Revisiting Antarctica - Land of Snow and Penguins!

Our first adventure in the zodiacs was at Cuverville Island. I think this was more a practice run so that the passengers would experience the organized routine of the excursions we were to take later. Passengers were divided into groups. Those traveling together were assigned to the same group. At a set time before our boarding the zodiac, we were to meet in a designated lounge and wait to be called. Our group was the last one on the schedule for the afternoon and as the sun dipped lower, I feared we might be canceled because of darkness.


We weren't canceled but between the clouds and the position of the sun, it was a bit dreary for taking pictures. Still, it was quite an adventure sitting in an inflatable boat and drawing near enough to the penguin colony on the island to be able to see them. The next day we would get to see them up close and personal.

The sun shone brightly the next morning, bleaching the snow and ice with a blazing white as we approached the Lamaire Channel. Our captain announced that because of the excellent conditions the Marco Polo had ventured farther south than it ever had before. However we still had not reached the Antarctic Circle.

We donned our parkas and watched the majestic icebergs that floated by our ship. They resembled giant white sculptures of contemporary art. The ice in the bergs was so pure and cold it actually looked blue--a phenomenon we had witnessed some of the glaciers in Alaska.


Mid-morning the Marco Polo turned and set course for Port Lockeroy on Weincke Island. Just before noon, we anchored in the bay. A change in the wind let us know that there was definitely a colony of penguins there. The smell of guano (the term for sea fowl excrement) greeted us. While the snow and ice is the purest white you can imagine, the home of the penguin colony colors it a dark orange.


Guano or not, we were excited to learn that our group that was last the day before would be first this afternoon. We finished lunch and scurried to gather our parkas, pants, boots, gloves, cameras, scarves. . .the list seemed long. Hearts beating quickly, we waited in the lounge for the call to the zodiacs all the while remembering: right hand through the life jacket first.

Revisiting Antarctica - Iceberg Ho!

After crossing the Drake Passage, we entered the calmer waters of the Bransfield Strait and saw our first iceberg. It looked majestic in its whiteness against the deep blue of the ocean. And yes, when you see your first really big iceberg you do have thoughts of the Titanic. But we never came close to it.

A while later, we got our first glimpse of Deception Island. It is actually a volcano but the center, the caldera, is flooded with water. It is unique in that vessels can actually sail into the middle of an active volcano. The winds were kind enough to allow our ship to do just that and we explored the horseshoe shaped center of the island where one of our naturalists pointed out two stations that had been destroyed on the island by volcanic action in 1967 and 1969.

Mostly snow covered, the rock formations of the island looked surreal in the mist that enveloped them. I assumed the misty look was caused by some of the thermally heated areas of the water. There is not much on the island except for several species of lichen, a variety of sea birds and a small colony of penguins. 

Our first adventure aboard the zodiacs (inflatable boats) that would be our transportation for excursions ashore would come later in the day. Meanwhile, we would have our second safety instruction meeting. Our first of course was the usual life boat drill but safety aboard the zodiacs would take on a whole new perspective. This would be the most memorable drill of all my cruising days.

We sat in the theater and listened to the leader instruct us as to the procedure we would follow in donning life jackets for the zodiacs. Since we would all be in large red parkas that made it a little more clumsy to move, the crew would help us. The life jackets for zodiac use were inflatable. A crew member would hold one up for us. We were to put all loose items we were carrying in our right hand, pass our left through the armhole, then transfer to the other hand and pass the right arm through. The crew would insure the jacket was secured properly and we would be on our way. It was quite efficient once everyone learned their right from their left.

The extraordinary part came when we were told how the life jackets would operate should we have the misfortune to find ourselves in the water. As best I can recall it went something like this:

Your life jacket will automatically inflate once you hit the water. There is a light that is water activated and a whistle that you can blow on for attention. Should your jacket not inflate immediately, there are two pull tabs in front that when pulled, will inflate the jacket. Should that system fail, you can manually inflate the jacket by blowing through the tube on the shoulder. However. . .

Here our leader paused to be sure he had our attention. 

Should you fall into the water which is near freezing temperature and your life jacket fails to inflate by the time you try to pull the tabs and/or manually inflate it, hypothermia will have set in which means that the light on your jacket will only serve to be a guide for recovery of the body. 

A sly smile crept across his face. "Don't fall out of the boat."

Revisiting Antarctica - Ushuaia and the Drake Passage

All 500 of the passengers who were to board the Marco Polo in Ushuaia, Argentina, for the cruise to Antarctica boarded a chartered 747 in Buenos Aires. We speculated that either a timely booking or the luck of a draw snared us seats in first class in the upper section of the 747. Reclining seats with footrests that were as comfortable as the La-Z-Boy back home made our plane ride to Ushuaia very cozy indeed. Added to that was the special treat of a first-class lunch and we were half way to heaven.

Ushuaia turned out to be a small town resembling a frontier town like you might find in Alaska. On our return trip, we be able to explore more. We boarded the Marco Polo and began to get oriented to our home for the next eight days. As we sipped coffee on the open deck next to the empty pool, the sun broke through the clouds and warmed us enough to shed the light jackets we were wearing. How cold would it be on this cruise we wondered? While it was January, it was summer in this part of the world. Still, we'd seen pictures of snow covered decks on some previous cruises. But while we had the sun, we sat back and enjoyed.

The other question uppermost in our mind was how rough would the Drake Passage be? It was notoriously one of the worst weather areas in the world and reports of high seas and winds and the havoc wrecked on some ships make us a bit unsettled. Shortly after dinner, we were to know. The ship began to rock and roll and I'm not referring to the music on board. We medicated and went to bed.

Actually while we did not experience the "Drake Lake" as they refer to a calm day at sea, we did not have extreme weather. Our day at sea was spent listening to some of the naturalists tell us about the adventure we were embarking upon. On board were 18 experts in all sorts of areas that included history as well as flora, fauna, and ice formations. The ship which usually held a little over 800 passengers was only carrying 500 for this trip. The reason: labor intensive care as we visited the peninsula and restrictions on how many were allowed to actually set foot on Antarctica.

In the middle of the afternoon, we found red parkas on our bed. They would be protection against the elements as well as easy way to spot people on shore. It would be tough to get left behind by mistake. Anyone scanning the shore would certainly see a red jacket against the white snow.

The ship's roll became more familiar as the day wore on but of all things. . .that second night at sea was to be formal night. It would be a test of balance and fortitude.

Antarctica Revisited - Pre-cruise: Iguazu Falls

As part of our pre-cruise tour before setting off for Antarctica, we chose to visit Iguazu Falls which is on the border between Argentina and Brazil. We arrived early in the day and spent it exploring the falls area. Part of our tour was spent walking out on a boardwalk and taking in the view from the top. While it was an interesting perspective, the view in no way compared to the beauty of the falls as seen from below.

Iguazu Falls is actually made up of 200 separate falls that come together in spectacular fashion. There were lots of trails to roam that gave many different views of the falls. Some allowed you to get close to the rushing water and others let you enjoy the immensity of the cascading water falls.

The more adventurous of our expedition elected to go for a ride into the falls area on a small boat. The less adventurous of us watched from above.

Debate raged on about whether the falls should best be viewed from the Argentinian side or the side in Brazil. Since there was a $100 charge for a visa to go into Brazil for a half day trip, we opted to enjoy our Argentinian view.

After a short flight back to Buenos Aires, we spent the evening anticipating our flight to Ushuaia at the southern tip of Argentina where we would board our ship and sail for Antarctica.

Wordless Wednesday